A Guide to "Chaat" your way through the Streets of Varanasi. (Part 1)

Detecting a whiff of freshly churned curd (Dahi) to piping hot puri's is seldom uncommon in the unofficial food capital of India, Varanasi!

I remember reading a strange line in a torn classic that said, "We don't eat food, we eat ideas." I now feel like this author might have written it after dandling through the buzzing streets of Banaras, trying out the heavenly delicacies of this arena!

Without wasting time or those salivating glands in your mouth, let's begin with the following;
P.S. I will be mentioning the most delicious places that serve these delicacies; it would be a crime to ignore them!

1. Chena Dahi Vada 

Every relationship goes through its ups and downs. The journey at times is as sweet as the 'Rasmalai', and sometimes we endure the brunt of the never-ending 'Karela.'

But what if I told you that Chena Dahi vada is an out-and-out mix of 'sweet and sour' dipped in slightly sweetened yoghurt, and a bite of it may feel like a music band playing the world's most melodious 'jazz' in your mouth?

Its un-imaginable combination of 'jeera', 'black salt' and 'coriander' makes this Dahi-infused dish the most popular and sought-after snack in Banaras!

Places to visit to try it out: Ksheer Sagar and Vishwanath Misthan Bhandar. 

2. Malaiyyo 

A particular delicacy that has touched the hearts of several cities in the North is called out by different names! 

‘Daulat ki Chaat’ in Delhi 

‘Nimish’ in Lucknow 

And finally ‘Malaiyyo’ in Varanasi!

Just as you get discount offers in retail stores in particular months and holidays, you get to experience the magic of this mouthful treasure only for 3 months! Between November to February, you see, only amid the chilly winds of the winter can one truly relish the heart of this dish.

Whilst the world prides itself on consuming different types of milk, the Indian culture had a strange idea, the milk that was once boiled generated a 'froth', and it is from that froth a rich, sweet invention of 'Malaiyyo' was born. 

A tinge of Saffron strands and flavourful cardamom is added to this froth and garnished with finely chopped pistachios and almonds, giving your mouth a party of flavours that it has been yearning for decades.

'Malaiyyo' is served to the customers in alluring clay bowls that add a smoky background to the scrumptiousness of the dish! 

Truly so, time will freeze once this saffron-filled sweet expands itself in your mouth, touching and pleasing each and every part of your tongue, ultimately making you encounter bliss through its ways.

Places to visit to try it out: Markandey Sardar Shop (Chaukhamba, Thatheri Bazaar)

3. Kachori Sabzi 

“Banaras aye ho aur Kachori Sabzi nahi khayi? Jhand ho gaye ho kya?" a line that was thrown at me by a dear local. I took it to my heart and went in search of this prize that defined the lanes of Banaras. How could I have missed it?

It's strange how popular items occupy the minds of Man; there was quite literally a "Kachoriwali Gully" that led me to tongue-succumbing joints like "Blue Lassi shop" and many more. 

Obviously, if the lane is "Kachoriwali Gully", almost all the shops kept lip-smacking kachori. Still, I arrived at a little outlet a few feet ahead of the Kashi Vishwanath temple, through the narrow, puzzled lanes of Varanasi, called "Guptaji Kachoriwale."

Guptaji's Kachori

A heavenly smell of masala was travelling from the sizzling hot puri's he was making in his Kadhai (vessel).

A brownish, crisp with a golden hue of a kachori was served on a steel plate with a 'masaledaar' (flavoursome) sabzi that emitted powerful flavours of spice, hing (honey) and a Madagascar of flavours through each bite. 

You dip the naram (soft) puri into the slight-watery sabzi (Vegetable) with fresh green peas and prepare for a house party in your mouth. Almost instantaneously, your eyes shut in an attempt to savour each sensation that this masala gives you. A 'foodgasmic' experience indeed!

Places to visit to try it out: Guptaji Kachoriwale

4. Choora Matar 

Aamchi Mumbai calls it "Pohe", yet this version is a 'winter' treat that might be the best snack or breakfast you might have had in India!

A grand 'plat du jour' in the form of 'chiwda' soaked in pure ghee whilst the peppery fumes of 'Garam Masala' form a commanding blend of delectableness with a combination of green peas, your mouth might not say it, but your heart will scream "MORE."

This form of 'flattened rice' in its natural habitat creates a pleasurable emotion of its own! 

I feel strange even while describing it simply because it contains such subtle varieties of flavour, ranging from sweet to spicy, all encompassed in one bite, that even though the tongue craves it, the mind is confused as to what the hell this really is!?

You see, it's like a philosopher who once commented on women; he said, "Women were meant to be loved, not understood." As controversial as it might sound, the same goes for Choora Matar. So enjoy it without questioning its ingredients!

Stay tuned for many more to come. Oh, these streets have magic in the form of food that would just seduce you to visit this city!